Couturier sewing class: Velvet Top

My newest sewing book acquisition is the Japanese language Couturier Sewing Class, one of the Heart Warming Life Series publications. It was released in October 2015 and I've had it in an eBay cart ever since.

I love the green wide legged pants, the gorgeous mustard raglan dress as made in black by Justine (on Bombazine) recently, the draped cardigan and the sweet white top/green ruffled dress. My absolute favourite however, is the top on the cover, especially it's image in wool inside.

There's a thorough review on the Japan Sewing Books blog - it's what swayed my decision that I simply must have the book!

So that's what I made first ;)

it has a faced neckline and partially interfaced waist

I was shopping with Helen and bought 2m of a stable black velvet for this very top, before the book arrived. I am very pleased to report that this top is exactly as I envisioned, was a pleasure to sew and has had lots of wear already - don't you love it when that happens!!

Black Velvet: so lovely to wear, so hard to photograph

This is the LL, largest, size made without alteration.
For body measurements: height 160-165cm, bust 94, waist 74, hips 98cm. The L would have been fine.

The round neckline is the front, it's shown reversible above, however when I wear the V to the front, it sits a little awkwardly.
and besides, the V at the back is cute and shows the back of the neck ;)
It is a fabric hog. I bought my very first piece of nani-iro double gauze from Miss Matatabi with this book and regrettably, it won't fit on the 1.5m (x106cm) piece without changes.
I will be making a summery version, it's too lovely a pattern not to!

I've been wearing it a lot, on date days with my beau, out to see Curtains at the Art Centre and again to the NGV International for the unpacking of their new acquisitions, all fabulous and fun times!
And my emerald accessory - it's a hand knitted clutch in super bulky acrylic - very hard on the wrists, but it's all worth it for fashion? no? ;)

Knitted on 8mm needles, black 4mm for comparison

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A Canberra Capsule Wardrobe #CBRFrocktails

I recently flew up to Canberra for the inaugural #CBRFrocktails and after a few false starts landing through the fog, was warmly greeted by the local sewing spoolettes, coffee and a sunny sky. 

Seven items proudly made by me ;)

Most importantly, what did I wear! Well, I took great delight in packing a small case with a co-ordinated selection of favourite RTW and new and favourite me-made items. Basing my daytime outfit around a pair of dark denim mid-waisted boot cuts (I found my 'perfect' RTW jean at the 11th hour before sewing a pair), I simply required a top each day to go under my Named Patterns' Saunio +/- layered with my teal Swoon cardigan. Two perfect workhorses that, conveniently layer beautifully together.

Japan Sew Along: Muslins and DD2#4 the fourth

I do love Japanese Pattern Books and Magazines, and I have quite the collection...
So, joining the Second Japan Sew Along over at Tanoshii seems a natural fit ;)
This post covers the first 3 weeks. I've been following along and chatting on Instagram, being inspired by the community's discussions and progress to date.

Basic Black semifitted shirt bodice as a top

Japan Sew Along, schedule (january 26 – march 9, 2015)

The weekly meetings of the sew along will take place on Monday when I will publish my article here on „Tanoshii“. 

Montag, january 26, 2015 Do you already have experiences with japanese sewing patterns, or is it the first time you are stepping into this field? Do you already have concrete plans, or are you still looking for inspiration? --- For all those who live in the northern hemisphere: What are your ideas for styling the light blouses and tunics to make them wearable in winter?

#2015jsa So, I like tracing....

A photo posted by Nic (@maci_nic) on Feb 1, 2015 at 4:52pm PST

Montag, february 2, 2015 Which pattern did you chose? Do you already know which fabric to use for it?
I have many Japanese pattern books/magazines, mainly as I adore browsing through them for inspiration. I'm definitely most inspired by the more unusual designs, I adore the Drape Drape series by Hikato Sato and Shape Shape by Natsuno Hiraiwa. 
I'm quite happy that I fit into the L/XL sizing of many of them. I did make my 2nd DD2#4 with the stretch running lengthwise and it required an additional 4cm of ease over my hips, so I'd say it's really  drafted for hips of 38". 

Montag, february 9, 2015  The pattern is prepared. Are you planning alterations? Do you already have the fabrics? Will it be necessary to make a muslin, or are you brave and cut “good” fabric?

To 'cleanse my palate' and remind myself why I adore Japanese sewing patterns, I made a quick DD2#4, my fourth version of this pattern, and it was as delightful as my previous versions.
The grey striped fabric is so wonderfully soft, although those stripes have no relationship to the grain of the fabric in any way.

What difference does a language, or fabric make... Cascade #13 or m

I have spent many months (I'll admit to well over a year...) admiring everything in Handmade by Carolyn's blog and apart from her Alabama Chanin creations, the posts I keep re-reading & being inspired by are those from Natsuno Hiraiwa's  Unique Clothes Anyway You Like It, released in English as Shape Shape.
Shape Shape is now out of print in English - sigh, I remain SO far behind the times some days... so after getting an inter-library loan & reluctantly returning it, I've bought the Japanese version.
This is Shape Shape's #13 Cascade Skirt, or UCAYLI's skirt 'm'. Carolyn made it in a gorgeously soft pink linen cotton  and my grey shirting is my closest version to this inspiration.

Basic Black Bodices; a book review

I only work in black - hmm... I feel like I just started a post with Batman's quote...

Along with many other sewing book fans, I waited impatiently for the English language release of Sato Watanabe's Japanese pattern book Basic Black: 26 Edgy Essentials for the Modern Wardrobe.

It's the simple things in life DD2#4 #3

It's the simple things in life that make me happy - like daisies from the garden picked by a preschooler, a perfectly extracted cup of coffee, dachshund snuggles without shedded fur

... and chevrons on my shoulders.

The fabric is Jaywalk from Tessuti, the pattern is possibly my first TNT,  the asymmetrical (scooped) neck top #4 from Drape Drape 2 by Hikato Sato.

A Tale of Two Cowls - Part One - DrapeDrape1 #1 - and a bonus Iconic Cami

March's Monthy Stitch Challenge is Miss Sew Bossy Patterns. I mainly played along in the Facebook group during February and it was so wonderfully interactive & built a fabulous sense of community - I was introduced to dozens & dozens of new-to-me blogs and the conversations flowed wonderfully.
Such a scathingly brilliant idea, thanks ladies!

Miss Bossy Patterns March

I had rebelled/hedged my bets and asked the Monthly Stitch Community to choose between 3 fabrics, 5 patterns.
I had a clear pattern winner (phew!) with 13 votes for the first draped top from the Japanese Pattern Book Drape Drape 1, which I've made (as bossed) in a luscious, thin, drapey red cotton knit from the Clegs Boxing Day sale.

Sewing from Japanese Pattern Books - DrapeDrape2

I do like the visual style of sewing from Japanese pattern books & magazines in general.
Having instructions in english doesn't seem as important when the pattern pieces fit together and there are numbers indicating the order of sewing and which bits connect where.
 - and I might just like a puzzle, perhaps ;) *

For my contribution to the Monthly Stitch for November's challenge "From a sewing book", I chose a Japanese magazine "Female", however that dress can wait for another post as I had a delightful time with DrapeDrape2.

I've previously blogged about the batwing dress of awesomeness and this time I'd love to introduce you my renditions of #2 and #4

#4 The left sleeve is a batwing with lovely draping, while the right is a more 'typical' sleeve shape

The Batwing Dress of Awesomeness

Well, "The Batwing Dress of Awesomeness" was it's running title and check out that pattern piece - yes, a 1m metal ruler fits across the bodice...

Some of you may recognise #7 from Drape Drape 2, one of the cult of Japanese Sewing Books.
There was much amusement as I tried to explain why I wanted to sew anything from the book and my fashion police looked on in bemusement, as well as a touch of concern...

So, there are some excellent versions of tops #4 and #2 around but not as many of #7 - I found four in my searches: TJ's, Ancien-Nouveau, Lisa of SmallThings and Oui Patrons two.

One of the main reasons I can think of - as in my humble opinion, it is one of the more wearable of the designs - is that it requests 165m wide fabric, and 2m of it at that.

I was also concerned about the straight front as it appears to give the model a tummy, and I already have one of them.

So... what else to do, but convert my 2 piece batwing dress to a 2 1/3 piece batwing dress ;)
So, the layout was:

In case you're curious, I used my 90cm wide tracing paper to trace the pieces whole rather than tracing each individual part and then taping them - not having taped paper when I can avoid it is a preference of mine.
The "back hem" left and right joining dots didn't line up for me, but the illustrations are clear enough to make it obvious which way each piece should go.

My fabric is a very light, translucent jersey with a metallic design that I picked up from the remnants table at Clegs - I have around 4m of it in total, so sacrificing 2.5 or so to this wasn't painful as if it didn't work, the pieces are would still be large enough for a top, or three ;)

I was concerned that it wouldn't like being sewn - it didn't like scissors at all, and moving the cutting mat to use the rotary cutter was entertaining, but the design is so forgiving, that a few deviations were negligible. I basted every drape as pins just slipped out, but that made trying it on easy and in the end, the extra width that I'd added across the centre front wasn't necessary and I removed it at the side seams as I overlocked them (4 threads; I used a narrow rolled hem on the open arm slits).

It does mean I have a more draped neckline than designed, but I feel that it follows the philosophy of the author: "The flow and volume of the drape will change somewhat with the material; this is something for you to have fun with as you make the garments!" - Hisako Sato

It was the work of an evening to trace & cut out, then the next evening for basting, sewing & fitting - Serging off the excess material was a breeze and very satisfying!

In summary:
Reviewed on Pattern Review
What did I sew: #7 of Drape Drape 2 in size XL with an additional 20cm across the CF - with one sleeve cut separately so it would fit on 150m fabric.

Does it look like the picture on the pattern - well, taking different weight fabrics into account, actually, yes, it does!

Will I make it again - personally, I don't need more than one bat wing dress of awesomeness, and I'm not tempted to sew a heavier version for me, but if I am looking for a chiffon beach cover up, I do think I just might ;)

What did I learn - That these books have a following for a reason - they have very clear instructions and this one at least, works better than first feared - and that I do love draping.

What do I love about it: It's actually really well designed - that hip hem doesn't ride up when my arms are in the air, or when I bend over to touch my toes - where was this design in my festival going youth!
oh yes, the 80's...

And not a pose I find myself in outside of yoga classes, but look, it doesn't ride up!