SEWN: Flying squirrel dress! V1482

I love this dress. I really do. Gabrielle's antipodean flying squirrel dress, the aquatic sugar glider is one of my most loved inspirations. Everything about it, the amazing abstract seaside creature fabric and it's sheer statementness is perfect. I have an equally loved piece of silk, with an abstract leopard image from Prada's 2009 resort collection, that's been waiting patiently for it's time to shine.

I asked Gabrielle for her thoughts as we browsed The Fabric Store in Sydney, which is where I bought it several years ago. It's a weighty silk, not as compact and drapey as the recommended crepe de chine or silk jersey, but I do like a structured drape... Might V1482 be the pattern for it?

I decided to test V1482 with some rather lovely weight tencel from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I'm rather glad the staff warned me that it would bleed a lot for it's first wash, it did, but has been very well behaved since. I'm still a tad scarred by the dark denim I used for my Genoa tote - it's still bleeding onto pale shorts (and this is after synthrapol, and in desperation, boiling it with vinegar and salt), it's one of those things... ;(

I did my research and as well as Gabrielle's, I took particular note of Lara's version. I fit a size M (14) by the envelope measurement, and didn't hesitate to sew the S (8-10). I do wish I'd paid extra attention to her GOMI source who outlined some excellent steps, that I incorporated after the fact.

Ok, since I made this straight from the envelope (without the sleeve bands), let's outline my thoughts:

#1 I adore the length. I was tempted to shorten it, but when pinned up, I lost the pegging that makes it work.

#2 Size - I chose well - Thank you my fellow seamstresses who made this before me and blogged about it. The hip is perfectly snug when getting in and out of it, I couldn't have gone any narrower on the hem. The neck opening was wide enough, that cutting the back with a CB seam was never an option.

#3 I hate the neck. There, I've said it. I do like a straight boat neck, and I do like a scooped V or U neck, but this is not quite one or the other and it simply doesn't work for me in this solid colour. I trialled every chunky necklace and silk scarf in my wardrobe, they all look better than the naked neckline.
I adapted the neckline by unpicking the facings (yes, I used ordinary facings in self fabric). I then resewed the neckline while taking an inch out of the shoulder seam at the neck, tapering to nothing on each side over 3 inches. It would have been much neater if I'd made the adjustment (as suggested on GOMI), at the time of cutting out.

#4. The denim tencel - it was absolutely gorgeous to sew. I was worried that I'd be a bit too shiny (cue an earworm from Jemaine the scary Moana crab...) but that aspect is ok - well, apart from the moire effect in untouched photographs (sorry DH). I adore the colour and the drape - not quite silk crepe de chine or rayon, it's a substantial fabric after all - but the solid colour is a bit too solid for me and sometimes I feel the dress wears me.
It's also rather warm. I find silk warm, and polyester sweaty, so that shouldn't be a surprise, but it was. On the plus side, I can see myself popping it on with bare legs through autumn and spring, and it should work well with boots for winter.

#5. I omitted the sleeve bands. If anything, I could have made the sleeves themselves more narrow/shorter, but I do like them at the end of the dolman extensions.

#6. I didn't french seam - quelle horreur!! I did french seam the pocket - and what a perfect sized pocket it is!, but there is extra bulk that isn't necessary with this heavier fabric. Being a solid and shiny fabric, every imperfection in my stitching feels accentuated and I wanted the seams to lie as flat as possible.

#7. I enjoyed using a gorgeous pale green as my top stitching thread - it matches my favourite Wonders heels and Elk bag.

Overall, DH isn't a fan, but I like it. It's big and loose and super comfy while being vaguely polished, especially with heels.
and it has a proper sized pocket - and that's always a win.

I had the very best lunch and photo shoot with DH and Helen - the graffiti was brilliant and Helen's got some amazing examples over on her Funkbunny blog!

SEWN: Hannah by the seaside

Victory Patterns' Hannah Dress

I've really enjoyed being able to wear my latest summer dress so late into Autumn. Today was another perfect example, so we meandered down to Williamstown, chatted to some divers and fishermen and had a lovely lunch - and jumped at the chance to take a few snaps of Hannah, even though we only had a phone - I'm very appreciative that I have a very talented photographer.

Hannah, of course, is Victory Patterns' newest dress and 'not a shift dress, shift dress'*

*yes, I am possibly the only one who makes such a strange comparison between straight +/- A-line shift dresses that I adore, but don't adore me, and ones with amazing seamlines and non-shift dress details. It reminds me of the Dandelion dress that I made twice & loved to death.

Hannah is described as an intermediate pattern, and that's an accurate statement. Precision marking and sewing isn't my strongest point and there are 4 darts, and those fabulous angled side seams that flow into the generous pockets - ohh how I adore the proper sized pockets! 

Other makes: 

Corrine Appleby in a lovely herbaceous sketch print - definitely my kind of a floral. I can relate to her comments on precision sewing, it's not my strongest skill either and basting might be a very good idea. Her Hannah looks lovely in 2 fabrics, I especially love the exposed binding.

And of course the fabulous Christy of CleverTinker who whipped up a gorgeous black rayon-linen-poly version the second Hannah was released, and swayed the world towards adding Hannah to our 'must make' queues ;) As always it's gorgeously styled and she sealed the 'sew Hannah now' deal for me.

All of our dresses are appropriately short. Mine feels fine while I'm walking, I think it's the faced shirt hem that holds it in place. Sitting however is another story, it's definitely a 'napkin on lap' length.
For the record, I'm  5'5" 165cm and made the size 37, a 37 5/8" or 95.6cm length, measured (by the pattern info) from shoulder at base of neck along the front.

My bust measurement is size 6, (with hips of an 8), however I'm glad I didn't try to grade between sizes and just made the 8, as the front bodice is tight across my forward shoulders. I'll do my usual adjustments and cut away at the front armscye next time.

And the elephant in the room - yes, I stuffed up the concealed front placket. The instructions are detailed, full of images and take up 3.5 pages. I clearly didn't fold accurately enough as the front looked great, but the back was off by the time I reached column 9 of 11.

I had forgotten how wonderful Victory Pattern's instruction are, despite my placket troubles, they are illustrated, detailed and nicely laid out. The pattern booklet is 17 pages long.

I love the faced hem, I love the generous pockets and I love the side seamlines and the back detail.

I didn't have any difficulties sewing through the 6+ layers at the shoulders as my fabric was lightweight. I did have difficulties with seam finishing as my fabric frayed easily. All seams which are enclosed, aren't finished separately. This would be ok with almost any other fabric. Mine has wriggled and shifted and I've cursed as it threatens to fray through the seams. It's a slubby linen look poly blend in the most divine true blue (according to Dulux), from Kinki Gerlinki in Brunswick.

I'm now plotting how best to make a version suitable for winter layering - a light wool blend with a slip underneath I think ....

Sunny Summer in the Seventies

This is a dress of my childhood, a vintage pattern, sewn in fabric possibly older than it is ;)

I can imagine my mum, grandmas & aunts wearing lightweight loose dresses like this during summer in the 1970's. They're not common in family photographs as most pictures were taken during celebrations when everyone was more dressed up, but I'm sure I remember dresses like these as 'house dresses'.

I was given this lightweight yellow cotton from my lovely MILs stash. I think it's from when they were living in the tropics in the early 1970's. It's delightfully smooth and cool to touch, however it's been maturing for a while as I couldn't picture it as anything. Then, I was browsing my shirt dress collection, the sleeves on view 2 of Style1578 circa 1976 jumped out at me and declared, "our time has come again, make us now!" So I did.

I made View 2 sleeveless, size 12, 34" bust

Kie-Kie-Kielo

My ear-worm for this dress has been Phil Collins Sussudio (you're welcome...)
There's a dress that's been on my mind... all the time...
If I just say the word .. "Kie-Kie-Kielo"....

always have a prop.... ;)

 Like many others, I was underwhelmed when it was released as part of Named's collection, yet strangely attracted to it. I then wanted it when Sew Independent looked so amazing in hers (blue & red). I stalked Busy Lizzy in Brizzy as she made hers transeasonal for MMMay14 and have since spotted Sew Jean Margaret's, Sara Berkes', Janika's and Annakreeta's.. clearly I couldn't move past without making it!

Half way through May #MMMay14

RenAlex&KMoss&CDSS, ClegsSS, CSS&Renfrew, SDT.

Top pic is V1250&ClegsSilkScarf 

The texta garments are MeMade, the pencil indicates RTW

One of my favourite online community events has to be Me Made May each year. This is the first year I've participated, but seeing sewists from around the world in their 'everyday' outfits is one of the most inspiring things - and of much more use to me for coordinating my wardrobe than any number of 'stylist' articles or photoshoots ;)

Week One had 4 days & was accompanied by Melbourne having a cold snap that took me completely by surprise - I couldn't remember what I wore last winter to stay warm!

MadMen3 - Jane Sterling she's a mod mod girl

Some days, a project just takes on a life of it's own. My social Anna was born out of picking up the right fabric with the right friends present to facilitate it's construction.

This story is like that, although I'll credit the online community and dreams of Sterling Cooper.

I had SO much fun with channelling 1967! Imagine if you will, that Jane Sterling hooks up with Megan Draper's hip friends after her divorce from Sterling (which was very, very expensive) and hits the town...

Followers of The Monthly Stitches Miss Bossy Patterns may recall that I had as option three a rayon printed with an Art Nouveau/1970's geometric design. I was asking for assistance about which late 60's pattern to sew up, my Mum's straight shift dress, or a raglan sleeved one that I thought was simply darling ;)

Influencing my choices was Julia Bobbin's MadMen Challenge #3 - and the seasons have caught up with the late 1960's, opening the challenge to shift dresses and more free-loving styles.

Replacing RTW - Simplicity 6672 - Black&Grey Maxi

Reflecting on everyone's goals for the year, it seems that some of the main trends for 2014 sewing bloggers who make resolutions, is to stash bust, continue RTW (ready to wear) fasts and develop some TNT (tried & true) patterns with variations.

I spent the later part of 2013 building an enviable stash (of both patterns and fabric) and am sure I'll find some pretty pieces to add to it in 2014 ;)

It's a gorgeous photo (on film no less)
Surely you don't want dress details as well?!

Call me Anna, Social Anna

Why Hello Mac, welcome to your photoshoot

Call me Anna, By Hand London, Anna

Anna really is a social lass isn't she. She's been spotted all around the world, varying her look each time and always looking fabulous. She's really, really good looking and quite generous too - not bad for a lass who only entered the scene in 2013.

Victory Nicole

Victory Patterns' Nicola has always been there, just hovering under my radar - woven wrap dress, cute petal sleeves, convertible to top and skirt combo, named after me (no, not me, it is a beautiful story though)
 - how could it not be on my sewing wishlist!

Dachshunds, Dinosaurs and dabbling in spring sewing

This weekend was the last of the September school holidays here and after some gale force winds earlier in the fortnight, spring decided to make an appearance.

So, we ventured out to a magical place from my childhood and introduced the dinosaurs to the next generation ;)

The dreaming dachshund of this blog has been asleep during the last few photo shoots, but he played happily with his kin while the human puppies attempted an obstacle course...
... and there was coffee requiring roasting, of course..

Spring sewing so far has been two versions of Disparate Discipline's Dandelion dress - with a post of its own to follow - my first review is here, and the grey ponte/ponti version fits and is nearly ready to share.

And another of my comfort sews - a heavy knit maxi skirt with a yoga/maternity waistband in navy & red stripes.
There are maxi skirt tutorials scattered across the internet. This spring I've enjoyed glancing at The pretty chevron one (although the waist seam will be on the outside & the waist measurements are too big for me; it is a pretty tutorial) and elizabeth avenue (which has a fabric layout & dimensions that work for me) for a reminder.

My maxi skirt variations include:

• Sewing the waistband in a >=< bow shape so it doesn't sit out from my waist (one of my standard sway back adaptations)
• Using 1~2 inches less than my waist diameter (depending the stretch of the fabric)
• and pockets, pockets are important ;)

For this one though, I'm (im)patiently waiting for my non-.pdf version of the Cake Red Velvet Collection so I can try Steph's hidden zip pocket (yes, I'm being good and waiting rather than hacking a version!)

And I've been happily drafting my summer woven maxi dress/es ;)
(...... and ignoring the Bombshell fabric & notions glaring accusingly from the corner....)

in fact, I'm ignoring the summer sews so much that I've just added the SewFab e-pattern bundle to my collection ;)

I've finally embraced Instagram and Twitter and caught a glimpse of where all the cool people are hanging out ;)

I can be found @Maci_Nic if you'd like to lurk with me ....

I do like Tiramisu

Happy Birthday Tiramisu - Cake's pattern was released a year ago and being the early adopter that I am (not), I waited until winter to buy and sew it up ;)

I was heavily influenced by the masses of online reviews (mostly positive), and that regardless of their body shape, women liked wearing it ...
I really wasn't sure about the style on me though.


I was still hesitant as I traced, cut & sewed my grey version - and even more so when I tried it on and thought "'blurgh' my hips so don't need that pocket" ... It was comfortable though... and over the next few weeks, I realised I'd worn it more than any other item in my wardrobe ...

It was comfy, and it had pockets ;) It had become the outfit to reach for on early morning kindy runs and general mum days - even the Royal Melbourne Show ;)

(Check out that pattern matching on the skirt seams!)

 Details! The 30minutes a day Cake Tiramisu sewalong is highly recommended - the details can be found here: The grey fabric is a textured knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics and the red/grey stripes is a soft lightweight knit from ClearIt (The Alannah Hill/Dangerfield fabric source)

The grey version was sewn with a narrow zigzag then the seams overlocked (in red, of course).

The red version was entirely constructed on the overlocker, with the exception of the side seams which were basted first, them overlocked.

I held the red stripes in place by ironing some light fusible web in the seam allowance before overlocking the seam (Do you know the stuff? it's sold as hemming tape, but never actually holds a hem longer than the first wash?)

Neither version is hemmed ... They seem to be holding up well ;0

So, I did what I'd wanted to do from the moment I saw Cation Design's version - I made a maxi and swirled ;)

Pattern Review:
Pattern Sizing: I chose the 35A for a 34" bust (both my high and standard measurements are the same, so the A cup was the clear choice over the 30D)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, in both versions - especially with the red stripe like the pattern picture ;)

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very - particularly if used in conjunction with the 30min a day sew along found on Cake's website

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I had some difficulty with following the fabric layout for my first version, but really appreciated the 'stripe matching lines' to get the chevrons without thinking too hard about them. And as an aside, wider stripes are more forgiving then narrow ones ;)

Fabric Used: Firstly a widthwise stretch grey cotton with a raised design, then a thin cotton blend jersey for my maxi version

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The grey version is straight from the pattern. For the red & grey stripes, I extended the skirt length to maxi, used narrower seams on the bodice and shifted the pockets down off my hips.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I've made 2 versions and will most likely make a few more in both lengths. And yes, I do recommend it to others, of all shapes and sewing levels ;)

Conclusion: A fabulous bit of comfort sewing, not unlike it's cake namesake. I do like a Tiramisu ;)

Everyone needs an LBD!

Meet my LBD - my Little Black Dress that is also my Lace Block Dream ;)

I was delighted to be invited along to a Melbourne Sewists' function of fabulousness on Saturday night - Frocktails was a gathering of several dozen incredibly talented women who all wore an amazing dress of their own making - everyone was wonderfully warm and welcoming and I admit there may have been some squealing as I met bloggers who inspire me with their makes, for the first time ;)

Thank you SO much Kat for organising the night - amazing food as well as the fabulous company.
There will be photos from the night appearing on some of the other girls blogs - The fabulous Mel Poppykettle has added us to her flickr steam, so you can find us all here.

So, what to make for an evening with such talented women.... Kat gave us plenty of notice, I RSVP'ed at the start of May!
I was very tempted by a piece of awesome emerald digitally printed chiffon silk in my stash, but couldn't bring myself to cut it - does that happen with anyone else?

The essentials for a fabulous frock IMHO involve fabulous fabric, design & fit. I decided to start with the fabulous fit and booked a session with Tessuti's SewInn.

In preparation for my class, I reread "Successful Dressmaking" from my stash of sewing texts and with new measurements, drafted a bodice block and made a muslin in some duckcloth cotton.

The lovely Vanessa was my class facilitator and she fitted my block with pins & texta markings, then supervised my transferring of these changes to my paper pattern.



I must say, I do like drawing patterns and manipulating darts is such fun - yes, I'm kind of weird like that ;)

Vanessa also walked me through how I planned to construct the dress, from placing the pattern pieces on the lace, through the order of sewing, choosing a zipper and finishing the seams.


Did I mention that the class was a mere week before Frocktails?


I'd fallen for my black lace at the Alannah Hill Clearance outlet earlier this year and wanted to make a sheath dress that I could subtly adapt with different slips underneath.

My inspiration dresses are from Dolce & Gabbana's spring 2012 collection - they have some amazing jewelled tones - and being 'old collections' can be picked up for a song - $839 rather than $2095 at Barneys New York if you're interested ;)

This is my best Scarlett pose - Peneloping and Erin of IHeartFabric are hosting a CopyCat Challenge2 until 30th Sept and this is my entry ;)

Armed with my freshly drafted block pattern, I laid out my pieces and cut my lace - with newly sharpened scissors for a change - Winter has seen me almost exclusively using rotary cutters for knits and silks.
I had forgotten how lovely sharp scissors and woven fabrics were ;)

The dachshund did his usual pattern weight impersonation and escaped unscathed.

I loaned mum's more modern machine to insert my invisible zip, with a foot that fitted! Yay! Unfortunately, in my excitement of having such modern niceties, I forgot to stabilise the seam... My impersonation of a ridgebacked lizard was salvaged with some unpicking, much steaming and stabilising the seam - lesson learnt.

The next lesson learnt was that black polyester thread on black lace is next to impossible to unpick, even with head lamps and sunlight... Ask me how I know... Go on... ;) - two front skirt darts, somehow they didn't line up with my bodice darts, sigh.. After unpicking both of them and part of the zip, I changed to a very dark green thread in my bobbin - almost undetectable, but enough to spot in the lace, which I do admit, was quite forgiving of being unpicked; if I hadn't cut any actual fabric threads.

I faced the neckline, hem and armholes with bias binding using Grainline studio's pictorial here. I like the design feature of the black banded edges with the lace and dress shape.

The inside seams aren't french, rather they're narrowly overlocked. I did have lovely inch wide seams, but I'm not going to need to adjust them again... right?

I love this dress, it's turned out as I imagined and is versatile enough to get a lot of wear. Best of all, I now have a block pattern that works for me - so bring on some spring sewing!

The Gatsby Dress

The fabric for this dress was bought on a whim while I was meant to be looking for wool suiting - Bees, Horses, Birds of Prey!! All in a distinctly oriental slinkyness that just cried out to be a kimono dressing gown, or a 1920's style frock - obviously ;)

Browsing the awesomeness of online 1920's fashion and the stills from Baz's new film was to wallow in decadent dreaming of the upper class, but surely everyday, women of a certain age, wore clothes in the 1920's as well - Hello Miss Fisher! Dot was a tad sensible for me, Phryne too magnificent, where next?

Why the treasures of Etsy - Thank you Carol and your 1920's draft your own dress pattern re-release! In the end, after detours via the Eucalyptus top, godets were abandoned (fabric too drapey) and the finished dress is remarkably similar to Marion Cotillard's dress in Midnight In Paris.  As I Said...: Fashion In Film: Midnight in Paris (2011)

Yes, an interpretation of the 1924 classic One-Hour-Dress (certificated as true at the 2nd National Merchandise Fair of 1923 no less!). The .pdf booklet "Easy Ways to Pretty Frocks" made for fascinating reading!

The bodice to the dropped waist is lined in silk that I picked up at Rathdowne Remnants sale (yay sales!) and I used the technique blogged about here (and in several other places). This all wouldn't have come together as seamlessly if the girls from Social Sewing hadn't helped with fitting my sloper and advising on my tank - Thank You!

Thanks to Mel for the reminder on ensuring the facing/lining is narrower than the dress fabric! And I clipped the neckline, then decided I didn't like it, so I've actually overlocked /serged the rest of the seams under the lining - with french seams, is it overkill? maybe not ;)

The gathers are reinforced by some Petersham ribbon and the side seams curve to the front as I decided that I did need a higher dropped waist to avoid looking entirely sacklike. I can quote Mr Paul Caret (1925) from the Art of Dress: 
"Do not be deceived as to your own figure. If gowns built on straight lines are not suited or becoming to your type, do not wear them... Watch your waistline. Place it where it is most becoming to you. Do not accept a high waistline if it fails to revel the good points of your figure .. and .. Do not hesitate to wear a wide skirt if it looks better on you than a narrow one. A tight skirt has caused many a woman to sacrifice her beauty for the sake of being fashionable"
Thank you Mr Caret ;)

What I have learnt:
French Seams are annoying to adjust - best not to try until you have the fit right ;)
Just Do It - and stop browsing all the pretty inspiration pictures and helpful tutorials
and that I really must look at the photo uploading glitch that's hindering my progress photos ;)

but I can say, it's incredibly comfortable, floats delightfully, layers well, all seams are French and I have bees on my bodice!