Fabulous Falda

It's been a few years, I've been playing over on Instagram as maciniccreates and my hair is definitely longer.

I had to make a special post here for my latest jacket, as the Falda is so very blog worthy.

Pattern Fantastique have a small, well curated, selection of patterns, that until recently, I've admired, but not sewn. Lets just say that I get the hype now. 

They're very professionally drafted, with small details like the sizes inside notches, that are really helpful. And they're interesting. Perfectly distinctive and so very wearable, especially in linen or a statement fabric.
(and I have some amazing designer dead stock statement fabrics in stash)

The Falda pattern is amazing, the attention to detail is appreciated and the finished jacket is worth the effort and extra time taken to think about several steps & relook at the illustrations with fresh eyes - they’re correct, and not initially instinctive.

I sewed the size 10 Falda jacket with no modifications, apart from the limitations of my fabric choice. I did try to extend the length at the final hem stages (and by cutting my facings longer to fit). Next time I'll make it longer before cutting out.

I first saw this fabric a very long time ago (it’s Nicholas from around 2015) and pictured it with the dramatic design of the Falda, but it took time to realise that it wasn’t such a strange idea.

Yes, keen eyes will notice I cut 2 pockets, not a mirrored pair

The fabric is very designer, clearly printed for a particular figure hugging dress, with abrupt colour changes and lines. Laying out the incredibly unique pattern pieces was an exercise in puzzle solving and trust and I’m rather chuffed that I interpreted the seams & folds as well as I did. 

Yes, I look forward to a solid version for winter and buying the rest of the #patternfantastique Collection

All errors are mine, and/or the unforgiving nature of the fabric - it doesn’t like ironing or unpicking and layers tended to shift annoyingly when top stitching.

It’s bonkers, and I love it.

SEWN: Hannah by the seaside

Victory Patterns' Hannah Dress

I've really enjoyed being able to wear my latest summer dress so late into Autumn. Today was another perfect example, so we meandered down to Williamstown, chatted to some divers and fishermen and had a lovely lunch - and jumped at the chance to take a few snaps of Hannah, even though we only had a phone - I'm very appreciative that I have a very talented photographer.

Hannah, of course, is Victory Patterns' newest dress and 'not a shift dress, shift dress'*

*yes, I am possibly the only one who makes such a strange comparison between straight +/- A-line shift dresses that I adore, but don't adore me, and ones with amazing seamlines and non-shift dress details. It reminds me of the Dandelion dress that I made twice & loved to death.

Hannah is described as an intermediate pattern, and that's an accurate statement. Precision marking and sewing isn't my strongest point and there are 4 darts, and those fabulous angled side seams that flow into the generous pockets - ohh how I adore the proper sized pockets! 

Other makes: 

Corrine Appleby in a lovely herbaceous sketch print - definitely my kind of a floral. I can relate to her comments on precision sewing, it's not my strongest skill either and basting might be a very good idea. Her Hannah looks lovely in 2 fabrics, I especially love the exposed binding.

And of course the fabulous Christy of CleverTinker who whipped up a gorgeous black rayon-linen-poly version the second Hannah was released, and swayed the world towards adding Hannah to our 'must make' queues ;) As always it's gorgeously styled and she sealed the 'sew Hannah now' deal for me.

All of our dresses are appropriately short. Mine feels fine while I'm walking, I think it's the faced shirt hem that holds it in place. Sitting however is another story, it's definitely a 'napkin on lap' length.
For the record, I'm  5'5" 165cm and made the size 37, a 37 5/8" or 95.6cm length, measured (by the pattern info) from shoulder at base of neck along the front.

My bust measurement is size 6, (with hips of an 8), however I'm glad I didn't try to grade between sizes and just made the 8, as the front bodice is tight across my forward shoulders. I'll do my usual adjustments and cut away at the front armscye next time.

And the elephant in the room - yes, I stuffed up the concealed front placket. The instructions are detailed, full of images and take up 3.5 pages. I clearly didn't fold accurately enough as the front looked great, but the back was off by the time I reached column 9 of 11.

I had forgotten how wonderful Victory Pattern's instruction are, despite my placket troubles, they are illustrated, detailed and nicely laid out. The pattern booklet is 17 pages long.

I love the faced hem, I love the generous pockets and I love the side seamlines and the back detail.

I didn't have any difficulties sewing through the 6+ layers at the shoulders as my fabric was lightweight. I did have difficulties with seam finishing as my fabric frayed easily. All seams which are enclosed, aren't finished separately. This would be ok with almost any other fabric. Mine has wriggled and shifted and I've cursed as it threatens to fray through the seams. It's a slubby linen look poly blend in the most divine true blue (according to Dulux), from Kinki Gerlinki in Brunswick.

I'm now plotting how best to make a version suitable for winter layering - a light wool blend with a slip underneath I think ....

Jungle January 2015 - V1347 Rucci PJs

It's Jungle January again over at Safari central!

Culottes - they're back.

I love culottes, in all of their 70's, late 80's and early 90's magnificence. I really didn't think I'd live to see fashion turn around to notice them again, however since the decades I remember were simply reinterpreting the 30's and 40's, it's really of no surprise that they're baaack!
Leading the culottes revival are the gorgeous Debbie at Lily Sage & Co and eternally stylish Kirsty B at Top Notch who have both inspired me with every version that they've made.
I can add Jillian of Sew Unravelled to that list now as well - I adore hers!

Definitely Culottes.

MMMay14: The conclusion

I have really enjoyed participating in Me Made May 14 and have met so many other sewing bloggers/flickrites who style their outfits in really lovely ways - It's been so perfectly inspiring!

SDTank&TealSS, DD2#4Blue, YSREva&BurdaPJ, CDSS&DD2#4Red, SDTank&KoiMoss, MumsVest&MossGreen, TiramisuGrey

YourStyleRocks Eva & Burda Pants

Revisiting Vogue 1250 and making her mine

I have had SO much wear out of my slinky black jersey Vogue 1250. Not as a dress, but as a draped top that goes with my fave grey wool Aline skirt, easily dressed up & down with different silk scarves, tights & boots.

Am actually part way up a large rock, while supervising small children

I was intrigued about how it would work in ponte, would I be able to wear it as a dress??

Koi Mini Moss

Moss selecting Liberty for Scout

With many thanks for Jen at Grainline's Thanksgiving Give Thanks pattern sale, and enabled by every blogger who's made the Moss, Archer or Scout before me….  - I've finally jumped onto the Grainline wagon with both feet and hands ;) I've added the Scout & Moss to my repertoire, while Archer & the Maritime shorts are waiting impatiently in the sewing queue ;)

I do like Tiramisu

Happy Birthday Tiramisu - Cake's pattern was released a year ago and being the early adopter that I am (not), I waited until winter to buy and sew it up ;)

I was heavily influenced by the masses of online reviews (mostly positive), and that regardless of their body shape, women liked wearing it ...
I really wasn't sure about the style on me though.


I was still hesitant as I traced, cut & sewed my grey version - and even more so when I tried it on and thought "'blurgh' my hips so don't need that pocket" ... It was comfortable though... and over the next few weeks, I realised I'd worn it more than any other item in my wardrobe ...

It was comfy, and it had pockets ;) It had become the outfit to reach for on early morning kindy runs and general mum days - even the Royal Melbourne Show ;)

(Check out that pattern matching on the skirt seams!)

 Details! The 30minutes a day Cake Tiramisu sewalong is highly recommended - the details can be found here: The grey fabric is a textured knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics and the red/grey stripes is a soft lightweight knit from ClearIt (The Alannah Hill/Dangerfield fabric source)

The grey version was sewn with a narrow zigzag then the seams overlocked (in red, of course).

The red version was entirely constructed on the overlocker, with the exception of the side seams which were basted first, them overlocked.

I held the red stripes in place by ironing some light fusible web in the seam allowance before overlocking the seam (Do you know the stuff? it's sold as hemming tape, but never actually holds a hem longer than the first wash?)

Neither version is hemmed ... They seem to be holding up well ;0

So, I did what I'd wanted to do from the moment I saw Cation Design's version - I made a maxi and swirled ;)

Pattern Review:
Pattern Sizing: I chose the 35A for a 34" bust (both my high and standard measurements are the same, so the A cup was the clear choice over the 30D)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, in both versions - especially with the red stripe like the pattern picture ;)

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very - particularly if used in conjunction with the 30min a day sew along found on Cake's website

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I had some difficulty with following the fabric layout for my first version, but really appreciated the 'stripe matching lines' to get the chevrons without thinking too hard about them. And as an aside, wider stripes are more forgiving then narrow ones ;)

Fabric Used: Firstly a widthwise stretch grey cotton with a raised design, then a thin cotton blend jersey for my maxi version

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The grey version is straight from the pattern. For the red & grey stripes, I extended the skirt length to maxi, used narrower seams on the bodice and shifted the pockets down off my hips.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I've made 2 versions and will most likely make a few more in both lengths. And yes, I do recommend it to others, of all shapes and sewing levels ;)

Conclusion: A fabulous bit of comfort sewing, not unlike it's cake namesake. I do like a Tiramisu ;)