Basic Black: 26 Edgy Essentials for the Modern Wardrobe.
Readings came through on launch date with Basic Black and I had it in my hot little hands by the end of the week.
|Shirt K with the darted bodice. The collar is the collar stand of other shirts|
I've also lengthened it to shirt M as K finishes quite short (the model has a black top on underneath). This bodice pattern is the same (either darted or princess seamed) for patterns K-S (3 shirts, 2 jackets and the bodices of 4 dresses)
The sleeves are drafted with no ease and to be set in flat.
|Shirt M with princess seams, from the same bodice on the pattern sheet.|
|Soaking up the sun & appreciating the looser back waist for gentle breezes|
Some notes on the instructions:
Seam allowances are NOT included. I actually prefer this as I trace out the pattern pieces, then I can lay them on my fabric & trace the stitching line. I seem to be able to match up traced stitching lines better than edges of fabric, especially when the seam allowances aren't what I think they are, or I want some extra 'fudge room' for fitting ;)
The instructions are sparse. Seriously.
One of the reasons I like Japanese pattern books (ok, apart from the designs), is the numbered diagrams - Looking at the illustration below, you first cut out the pattern (from sheet B, not A an errata), adding your own seam allowances, then iron the interfacing (shown thereafter as textured grey).
The next step is to do step 1: create darts (using whichever method you like, or a 'how to' is illustrated as part of dress F)
then step 2: create front plackets - which requires you to look at the diagram below (in the pic above), where the order is 1) Sew placket hem: 3/8" hem folded under, then 2) 7/8" hemmed again, 3) Stitch as illustrated. Then fold the placket in 3/8, then 1 1/4 & stitch, trimming the bottom corner as illustrated.
Now, I was initially a tad puzzled as my seam allowances (from the diagram) from CF are 1 5/8. 3/8 + 1 1/4 is 1 5/8, so I couldn't see an overlap for the buttons. It was then that I realised that I'd added my 1 5/8 from the CF line, not the parallel line 1cm (3/8) further out - oops... (The 2nd line 1cm away from the CF line I missed in my tracing, I believe I may have thought it was the CF for the L sized bodice)
The CF runs through the middle of the placket if you've followed the diagrams correctly.
And I only realised they were swapping between cm and inches with such frequency when re-reading this, I worked through it without noticing ;)
To complete Step 4: Attach Collar, you flick back in the book to jacket D where the diagram explaining it is... (no, that's not specified... perhaps you're meant to make each project in order and build your skills up as you progress through all 26, although dress P also illustrates it...) This jumping back & forwards isn't specific to this book, it's also found in Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori, among others, though they often specify which page to jump to.
I attached the collar (stitching in the ditch rather than hand sewing the inner collar), but it was too high for me, so this is the collar (which is the lower collar for other patterns) piece, folded in half.
The sleeves and bottom hem are finished with a twice folded hem.
My other variation is the V neck, I've omitted the buttons (rather than add a seperate placket, though there are instructions for one in the the next shirt L), so this is a slip-over top.
|an example of another set of instructions - this skirt is drafted by you, the bodice is the same as for K|
|The delightfully un-crowded pattern sheet included in the book and finished garment measurements|
More reviews and photos from basic Black can be found on Kirsty's Top Notch blog and I adore The Sew Convert's linen bamboo blouse (project F)!