Sunday, 8 May 2016

SEWN: Hannah by the seaside

Victory Patterns' Hannah Dress
I've really enjoyed being able to wear my latest summer dress so late into Autumn. Today was another perfect example, so we meandered down to Williamstown, chatted to some divers and fishermen and had a lovely lunch - and jumped at the chance to take a few snaps of Hannah, even though we only had a phone - I'm very appreciative that I have a very talented photographer.

Hannah, of course, is Victory Patterns' newest dress and 'not a shift dress, shift dress'*
*yes, I am possibly the only one who makes such a strange comparison between straight +/- A-line shift dresses that I adore, but don't adore me, and ones with amazing seamlines and non-shift dress details. It reminds me of the Dandelion dress that I made twice & loved to death.

Hannah is described as an intermediate pattern, and that's an accurate statement. Precision marking and sewing isn't my strongest point and there are 4 darts, and those fabulous angled side seams that flow into the generous pockets - ohh how I adore the proper sized pockets! 
Other makes: 
Corrine Appleby in a lovely herbaceous sketch print - definitely my kind of a floral. I can relate to her comments on precision sewing, it's not my strongest skill either and basting might be a very good idea. Her Hannah looks lovely in 2 fabrics, I especially love the exposed binding.

And of course the fabulous Christy of CleverTinker who whipped up a gorgeous black rayon-linen-poly version the second Hannah was released, and swayed the world towards adding Hannah to our 'must make' queues ;) As always it's gorgeously styled and she sealed the 'sew Hannah now' deal for me.
All of our dresses are appropriately short. Mine feels fine while I'm walking, I think it's the faced shirt hem that holds it in place. Sitting however is another story, it's definitely a 'napkin on lap' length.
For the record, I'm  5'5" 165cm and made the size 37, a 37 5/8" or 95.6cm length, measured (by the pattern info) from shoulder at base of neck along the front.

My bust measurement is size 6, (with hips of an 8), however I'm glad I didn't try to grade between sizes and just made the 8, as the front bodice is tight across my forward shoulders. I'll do my usual adjustments and cut away at the front armscye next time.

And the elephant in the room - yes, I stuffed up the concealed front placket. The instructions are detailed, full of images and take up 3.5 pages. I clearly didn't fold accurately enough as the front looked great, but the back was off by the time I reached column 9 of 11.
I had forgotten how wonderful Victory Pattern's instruction are, despite my placket troubles, they are illustrated, detailed and nicely laid out. The pattern booklet is 17 pages long.

I love the faced hem, I love the generous pockets and I love the side seamlines and the back detail.

I didn't have any difficulties sewing through the 6+ layers at the shoulders as my fabric was lightweight. I did have difficulties with seam finishing as my fabric frayed easily. All seams which are enclosed, aren't finished separately. This would be ok with almost any other fabric. Mine has wriggled and shifted and I've cursed as it threatens to fray through the seams. It's a slubby linen look poly blend in the most divine true blue (according to Dulux), from Kinki Gerlinki in Brunswick.

I'm now plotting how best to make a version suitable for winter layering - a light wool blend with a slip underneath I think ....