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Monday 9 March 2015

Sunny Summer in the Seventies

This is a dress of my childhood, a vintage pattern, sewn in fabric possibly older than it is ;)
I can imagine my mum, grandmas & aunts wearing lightweight loose dresses like this during summer in the 1970's. They're not common in family photographs as most pictures were taken during celebrations when everyone was more dressed up, but I'm sure I remember dresses like these as 'house dresses'.

I was given this lightweight yellow cotton from my lovely MILs stash. I think it's from when they were living in the tropics in the early 1970's. It's delightfully smooth and cool to touch, however it's been maturing for a while as I couldn't picture it as anything. Then, I was browsing my shirt dress collection, the sleeves on view 2 of Style1578 circa 1976 jumped out at me and declared, "our time has come again, make us now!" So I did.
I made View 2 sleeveless, size 12, 34" bust

I wore this to a family birthday (it was summer and 40C) and mum took one look & knew the era I was unashamedly revisiting.
The collar in its full 1976 glory
I did make a concession to current fashion by not including the 70's winged collar. Don't get me wrong, I only narrowed it 2cm before attaching it & polling IG - well, ok, I'd already researched 1940's collars & minimised one side before putting a pic up. I do love the 70's but I can't quite carry off the collar, not even in a print of the era.

Basted and pinned to check for fit
This shirtdress has a yoke rather than shoulder seams and I wasn't sure how I should adjust it for my forward shoulders, so I didn't. I could have taken some width out of the bodice front, the gathers aren't quite right. And that 70's collar hid them better...
I do love a single sized pattern for the it's clarity and beauty, this dress is size 12 for a 34" 87cm bust, 26 1/2" 67cm waist and 36" 92cm hips. I widened the CB by 2cm for the first 17cm under the back yoke, and again from 52cm for my hips.
a detail of the sleeves;
I love the simplicity of the vintage single size pattern with its marked stitching line, anatomical and cutting details
I also dropped the side seam pockets down 15cm to sit where they are most comfortable, and as they're making no effort to be inconspicuous with their top stitching, I increased their size as well. They're good pockets and very handy.
The original pocket pattern piece, my extended piece, and at the top, the new placement
I also love vintage patterns for their illustrated instructions. Lots of basting.

I took great delight in putting the buttons & buttonholes just where I wanted them. I also deliberately chose to place my buttonholes in the horizontal axis. I know there's often debate about strain and vertical versus horizontal buttonholes - I believe the conclusion is that horizontal are for coats, while are vertical for shirts as shirts are tucked in. I don't tuck shirts or shirt dresses in, so there's little vertical pulling, which allows me to choose horizontal placement.
I also like horizontal as it gives me a smidge more stretch between different bras without gaping, and I dislike the bulge of strained vertical buttonholes.
And in the instructions for this 1976 shirtdress pattern? it opts for horizontal "worked or machine" buttonholes as well ;)

The just-above knee hem transformed this from 'frumpy summer sack' to 'cute summer vintage dress' and it's a great length for ease of wear. The big, double folded 70's hem gives a nice weight too. - Jillian, I like a 38" length!
The front button placket is folded in three, mainly as I used the selvage and preferred to fold it twice rather than cut it off & finish the edges.
My buttonholer preferred the three layers too ;)


30 comments:

  1. Oww I am in love with this. I remember my Nan and Aunt wearing dresses like this. The short length is a good idea keeps it nice and modern. Those sleeves are perfect as is the collar- I am a fan. Great work.

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  2. I love it and can see you getting loads of wear out of it in summer! Such a special fabric doesn't seeing your way that often and you really did it justice..

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    1. Thanks Nicky, it was such a lovely fabric, and much lighter than the other ones I inherited. I'm really glad that it's worked so well as this dress.

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  3. You are very on trend as all the Brit magazines are saying 70's are back for (our) summer 2015! Very striking and pretty fabric and I loved all the details you included in your story of making.

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    1. Yay! I am glad the 70's are back, even though we can leave the collars behind :) I'm also relieved to hear that I'll still be 'on trend' when summer rolls back around ;)

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  4. This is awesome! I can't see what's not quite right about your gathers, I think they look perfect and are a lovely detail. And how great do you look in yellow, by the way?!

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    1. Thanks Jenny! I'm slowly adding more yellow, this fabric has all kinds of summery goodness going on!

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  5. Ha! 38 inch girl :) I took such joy in measuring my dresses and finding out they were literally all hemmed at the same length, yet I'd never compared them side by side before. My adoration of this make is to be expected really. I'm loving it and would steal it if I could. I am also a believer in horizontal buttonholes and I'm going to stick to my guns in future on that one. Enjoy that lovely summer breeziness while it's still here!

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    1. ;) I think we all need a 'happy dress' in our summer wardrobe!!
      And I've put some thought into the buttonhole question, clearly as 'team horizontal' we have valid points ;) Then again, I do seem to have my hands in my pockets a lot in these photos, so there is a case for vertical strain... ;)

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  6. Oh, I love it! You look so effortlessly cool and comfortable - no small thing in our summer! All the details are so lovely; the sleeves, the yoke, the gathers - love them all. And that yellow could not be more perfect....Hope you can get some autumn wear out of it; it'd be such a shame if it didn't get out and about again till next summer!

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    1. Thanks Danielle! I did think of your fabulous 70's shirt dress as I was enjoying all the little 70's details in this pattern, it really was a lovely era for patterns, well if we can look past the fabrics...

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  7. This is the making of a great summer! I want this casual crisp thing you have going here!

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    1. I feel cool & crisp just looking back at the photos! ;) Thanks Anne, I look forward to seeing you chilled out this summer too ;)

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  8. Fabulous Frock, you have elevated the humble house dress into Frock territory!

    I am a fan of the house dress. It means I can answer the door looking slightly more respectable than in my pyjamas (which are clearly pyjamas and cannot be fobbed off as lounge wear) or exercise gear (which is invariably a little smelly) but they are still practical enough to do chores in. I layer up mine for winter with skivvies (how 70s!) and tights/leggings.

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    1. YES!! The house dress is definitely the loungewear revolution we have been waiting for! and thank you ;)

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  9. Oh i so want a house dress! This is just fab and your photo story is so fun!

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    1. Everything about a 'happy dress' is fun! I can definitely see you rocking a house dress, in Liberty natch ;)
      Thanks Kirsty.

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  10. Oh, a beautiful dress, I love the simple style and the bright colours, the short sleeves look very modern, wouldn't have thought to find these on a 70ies dress.
    I never thought about the difference between horizontal and vertical buttonholes, I always just did. But I see know the advantages of each direction. Thanks very much for mentioning this.
    ~ette

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    1. Thanks Ette, I really like the small details on patterns from the 1970's, they're often subtle (or not, e.g. the collars).
      And, yes, I started researching the buttonhole direction to support my preference for horizontal buttonholes when faced with vertical ones on RTW and modern shirt patterns ;)

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  11. AHHHH! This is to summer perfect for words! I want to steal your wardrobe, Nic! Tres rad as always :D

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    1. Awww shucks Amanda - I want to steal yours ;)

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  12. Look at you! golden light, golden dress. Lovely xx

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    1. Thanks Helen, and thank you for the hemming help!! ;)

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  13. What a cute dress! I LOVE that fabulous golden floral too. And I couldn't help but notice your famous five book.... SNAP!! I still have all of my collection too!

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    1. Snap indeed! I'm enjoying re-reading my childhood favourites, some (Biggles comes to mind) are fascinating snapshots of a different time & others are timeless.

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